纽约!纽约!

多少次曾经缠绵在这里,
几多甜美回忆。
又多少次曾经迷失在这里,
几多彷徨。
纽约!纽约!
你带给我希望,又带走它,
你拿走了我的热情,却没还给我。

我总算可以自称是纽约客,可以对新奇的事情不屑一顾,可以在7号地铁里小睡一会,可以在时代广场忽略周围拍照的游客,也可以半夜在FDR开到60迈稍微吹吹风,或者临晨游走在唐人街的大街小巷看无家可归者醉倒在公寓楼门口。这个都市就像一颗心脏,不知疲觉的跳动着,每天把无数人的记忆抖落在哈得孙河。

— 都说纽约是天堂,可是这里却不住着天使

曼哈顿的每一个角落,每一个公园,都蜷缩着无家可归者。有一次我参加市府的一个调查项目,半夜去找那些无家可归者登记,除了酒鬼和吸毒者,给我记忆较深刻的是一个大约50岁左右的华人。他思路清晰讲话平和,穿的却破破烂烂的,推着一个小购物车,里面全是瓶瓶罐罐的废品。我和他交谈中得知,他来美国已经二十年了,起先给别人打工还可以生活,后来给子女赶出家门,就露宿街头了。他向我诉苦说前一天晚上几个外国小孩子用苹果砸中了他的前额,还用手指给我看血红的伤口。我问他为什么不去不远处的Bowery Mission,他说里面也不容易进去,进去要查身份的,而自己的绿卡在几年前就丢了。我要他帮我在调查表上签个字,他死活不肯,直到后来我给他10美元后,他才签字。说起这10美元 ,我也给另外一个流浪的酒鬼10美元,他感谢天地的认为我是天使,说等店家一开门就去买morning beer喝,我只好苦笑的说:“谢谢你的签字,我想这里不住着天使“。

— 大家都是过客

最明显的是学生们,一般这里学习几年,毕业后就各奔东西,大多数都回去了母国。聚有时散亦有时,在这里时,每个人都有了自己的生活圈子,朋友交了一大堆,一起喝酒吃饭唱歌或推心置腹或勾心斗角,可是离开这里以后还保持联系的却凤毛麟角。像是旅游团里临时遇到的团友,一起旅行很愉快,推心置腹无话不谈,可是几时行程结束了,马上就把这段记忆束之高阁,把里面的人物全打包了存放在尘封的相册里。即使是那些拿了绿卡入了籍的,也保不准哪天就海归了,而那些没有海归的,很多人赚了钱便也搬离纽约去了其他州生活。

— 蜗居算什么

华人来纽约辛苦打拼几十年,形成了3个较大的唐人街。最大的要数新兴起的法拉盛了。小小地块,聚集了数十万华人,商贾小贩各色人等鱼龙混杂,缅街几百米的街道熙熙攘攘车水马龙,烤羊肉串铺子的烟从每个十字路口的街角扶摇直上,向全美国昭示着一派繁荣景象。缅街北面是一栋一栋的红砖楼,每一个楼里,每一块窗户围着的也许是新移民一家老小几口,也许是3,4个合租的留学生,也许是一个中餐馆的所有员工,基本上都是华人。都说美国人住大房子,可惜法拉盛根本不算是美国。一个小小的一室一厅在这里要卖到三,四十万美元。这个钱足够在德州买一个带游泳池和大后院的别墅了。法拉盛这样,更别说曼哈顿了,房价更是要翻上3,4倍。夸张一点的说,如果有人想把德州的大房子卖了来换曼哈顿的公寓住的话,那他可要考虑清楚,因为那点钱,仅够在这里买个King size的床位吧。

— 民以食为天

西方国家安插在中国的,除了大使馆,领事馆,办事处联络处等,一般还有国际学校。中国安插在西方国家的,除了大使馆,领事馆等,那一定是中餐馆。美国的中餐馆之多,分布之广泛,没来过这里的人一定不可想象。事实证明,中国人最善于的也是这个。我有时候想,如果中国领事馆想联系拉拢在美华人的话,那最好是通过中餐馆来,因为在美华人没有吃过这里中餐馆的,那简直就好象要寻找一位天生不会吃饭的人一样不可能。纽约唯一让人难以割舍的,便是无数地道中餐美食。无论是天南地北风味,朵颐大餐或者开胃小食,这里全有。比起在外州去个中餐馆要开车半小时的情况,这里实在是太方便贪食的人了。如果纽约是个丑媳妇的话,这要离婚还真不太容易呢,谁让她抓住了你的胃。

— 垃圾堆上帝国大厦的顶

相比美国其他州的城市,纽约真的脏。垃圾遍地,污水横流,空气污浊。唐人街街头的油腻,铲下来应该可以填满再造一个中央公园了吧。坑坑洼洼路似乎像华尔街贪婪的心一样,永远也填不满。更不用提那个四通八达的地铁系统了,铁轨里住着老鼠,站台上睡的是流浪汉,相比而言,还是老鼠好,至少它们身上的气味,不会让你产生闻到一次,就有立即跳轨自杀的冲动。纽约整个城,就是这么一个废都,假设突然之间撤走城里所有的人,几天之内这个城就会变成一个鬼城,一堆废墟。这个城里的所有纽约客,像一群蚂蚁一样,拼了命的工作,缝缝补补,拼拼凑凑,维持了这个城市的鲜活,没有了他们,垃圾要埋没了帝国大厦的顶。

— 纽约人都是流氓

忍到最后才说纽约客,主要是为了防止我打字过程中过早的吐出来。纽约人生性粗俗卑鄙恶略龌龊不堪,我需要极力避免想起,才能不至于崩溃到要砸掉电脑。这里附上电影“第二十五小时的”一段独白作为结尾。

Fuck me? Fuck you! Fuck you and this whole city and everyone in it.

Fuck the panhandlers, grubbing for money, and smiling at me behind my back.

Fuck squeegee men dirtying up the clean windshield of my car. Get a fucking job!

Fuck the Sikhs and the Pakistanis bombing down the avenues in decrepit cabs, curry steaming out their pores and stinking up my day. Terrorists in fucking training. Slow the fuck down!

Fuck the Chelsea boys with their waxed chests and pumped up biceps. Going down on each other in my parks and on my piers, jingling their dicks on my Channel 35.

Fuck the Korean grocers with their pyramids of overpriced fruit and their tulips and roses wrapped in plastic. Ten years in the country, still no speaky English?
Fuck the Russians in Brighton Beach. Mobster thugs sitting in cafés, sipping tea in little glasses, sugar cubes between their teeth. Wheelin’ and dealin’ and schemin’. Go back where you fucking came from!

Fuck the black-hatted Chassidim, strolling up and down 47th street in their dirty gabardine with their dandruff. Selling South African apartheid diamonds!

Fuck the Wall Street brokers. Self-styled masters of the universe. Michael Douglas, Gordon Gecko wannabe mother fuckers, figuring out new ways to rob hard working people blind. Send those Enron assholes to jail for fucking life! You think Bush and Cheney didn’t know about that shit? Give me a fucking break! Tyco! Imclone! Adelphia! Worldcom!

Fuck the Puerto Ricans. 20 to a car, swelling up the welfare rolls, worst fuckin’ parade in the city. And don’t even get me started on the Dom-in-i-cans, because they make the Puerto Ricans look good.

Fuck the Bensonhurst Italians with their pomaded hair, their nylon warm-up suits, and their St. Anthony medallions. Swinging their, Jason Giambi, Louisville slugger, baseball bats, trying to audition for the Sopranos.

Fuck the Upper East Side wives with their Hermés scarves and their fifty-dollar Balducci artichokes. Overfed faces getting pulled and lifted and stretched, all taut and shiny. You’re not fooling anybody, sweetheart!

Fuck the uptown brothers. They never pass the ball, they don’t want to play defense, they take fives steps on every lay-up to the hoop. And then they want to turn around and blame everything on the white man. Slavery ended one hundred and thirty seven years ago. Move the fuck on!
Fuck the corrupt cops with their anus violating plungers and their 41 shots, standing behind a blue wall of silence. You betray our trust!

Fuck the priests who put their hands down some innocent child’s pants. Fuck the church that protects them, delivering us into evil. And while you’re at it, fuck JC! He got off easy! A day on the cross, a weekend in hell, and all the hallelujahs of the legioned angels for eternity! Try seven years in fuckin Otisville, Jay!

Fuck Osama Bin Laden, Alqueda, and backward-ass, cave-dwelling, fundamentalist assholes everywhere. On the names of innocent thousands murdered, I pray you spend the rest of eternity with your seventy-two whores roasting in a jet-fueled fire in hell. You towel headed camel jockeys can kiss my royal, Irish ass!

Fuck this whole city and everyone in it. From the row houses of Astoria to the penthouses on Park Avenue. From the projects in the Bronx to the lofts in Soho. From the tenements in Alphabet City to the brownstones in Park slope to the split levels in Staten Island. Let an earthquake crumble it. Let the fires rage. Let it burn to fuckin ash then let the waters rise and submerge this whole, rat-infested place.

如果你看到这里了,那不妨看看这段独白给说出来的效果,见这里或者文末。总之,对于标榜自己是天堂的城市,你要小心,因为那里往往是地狱。

关于 L

3 Responses to 纽约!纽约!

  1. 顾家男说道:

    算是见识了,嗯,纽约。

  2. maggiemii说道:

    最热闹的社区也是最寂寞的

  3. 呵呵,有意思,不过纽约还是有很多美好的东东…

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